In this article+
01
Assign every layer a job
A base manages comfort, a middle layer adds warmth or texture and an outer layer handles shape or weather. If two garments do the same job, remove one before sizing everything else up.
02
Move from fine to substantial
Smooth cotton, fine merino and lightweight wool sit closest to the body. Brushed overshirts, tailoring and coats belong outside. Reversing the order creates friction, bunching and crowded armholes.
03
Protect the armhole
Low or narrow armholes trap layers and lift the whole jacket when you move. Reach forward and cross your arms; the collar should stay close and the sleeves should not drag every layer underneath.
04
Control visible hems
One visible base hem can look intentional. Several staggered hems usually look accidental and shorten the leg line. Check the outfit seated as well as standing because knitwear often rides up beneath a jacket.
05
Buy the outer layer with the system
Try coats over the thickest real combination and jackets over the base you use most. Do not size for an imaginary stack of winter clothes that never leaves the wardrobe.